Ramisco (pronounce the “R” like an “H”) is a picky varietal: it only likes sandy soils, it demands to be planted deep, and it requires lots of aging to open up. There are only 10 hectares of Ramisco remaining on this planet; there was more planted not long ago, but Colares, the Lisboa appellation that the grape calls home, is shrinking. Far enough from the capital for that quaint beach-life feel, but close enough for commuters, Colares is steadily turning from vineyards into suburbs. So, if you come across a bottle of Ramisco, you should snag it.
At SISAB, I had the pleasure of trying Adega Regional de Colares “Arenae” Ramisco 2006, which was aged for 3 years in “exotic barrel” (whatever that means), 1 year in barrique, and 3 years in bottle before release. The wine is a dark auburn color, with a meaty nose: spicy blood sausage, tobacco ash, and smoked hickory. It’s ultra-tart, with strong fruity/spicy tannins and a light-medium body that reminds me of a Barbaresco. Arenae Ramisco is smoky, with medium-intense acidity, a long finish, and flavors of black cherry, Worcestershire sauce, and red cedar. I would break this one out for a pig roast, or pair it with linguine with sausage and red sauce, or stir-fried apples, bacon, and kale.
Visit Adega Regional de Colares online at http://www.arcolares.com/
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