Before this trip, I loathed Vinho Verde. I also didn’t know what it was, because I’d never really tried one. Most Vinho Verde on the New York City market (I won’t name names) is diluted, barely alcoholic lemon-lime seltzer, which might have seen a grape once and retails for under $10. But, if it’s not Gazela or Casal Garcia, what is Vinho Verde, actually? Well, for starters, it’s a region: Portugal’s northwestern-most appellation, in the Minho province (where most of the country’s corn comes from). In Minho, Vinho Verde wines are made from a number of white grapes, including Alvarinho, Trajadura, Loureiro, and Avesso. Paradoxically, Vinho Verde can also be red, made from Espadeiro or Vinhão grapes.
At SISAB, the Portuguese wine and food fair in Lisbon, I tried two Vinho Verdes that, for me, really illustrated the diversity of the region. The first of these (and my favorite) was Provam’s Varanda do Conde, a blend of Alvarinho (70%) and Trajadura (30%) from the northern subregion of Monçao and Melgaço. A clear green, almost watery color, this wine smelled of watermelon pith, green pear, and white flowers. It was surprisingly weighty—medium-bodied, with good acidity carrying citrus and stone fruit flavors: ugli fruit, fresh apricot, and unripe peach.
The second was Provam Loureiro, a monovarietal Vinho Verde from further south in Minho. While also watery green, the Loureiro smelled less citric than the Alvarinho/Trajadura blend, and more floral. Honeysuckle, green melon, and white pear notes constituted the flavor profile. You don’t look for these wines to blow your mind—just to provide company to a Caesar salad, a fruit platter, or a hot summer day. Even so, I’d take either of these in an instant over the plonky lemon water we call Vinho Verde back home.
Check out Provam and Varanda do Conde online at http://www.provam.com/
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