Pico is an island in the Azores archipelago famed for its fortified wines and named for its volcano—at 7713 feet, the tallest in Portugal, and the tallest island mountain in the Atlantic (there are taller ones underwater). “Lajido” is the name of the solidified lava into which the vines on Pico are planted; it’s also the name of the wine I’m drinking.
Lajido Pico DOP Superior 2003 is a blend of Arinto, Verdelho, and Terrantez, which are grown within cracks in the currais, volcanic stone wall enclosures which protect the vines from the salt spray and powerful winds of the Atlantic Ocean. Even with this protection, these vines have to be tough to survive, and tough they are—the grapes on Pico are thick-skinned, and the yeasts are so hardy that they can naturally ferment up to 17% ABV. Lajido Pico DOP Superior 2003 has brandy added for alcohol content, but only after its fermentation is complete, making for a dry style of fortified wine.
The wine, which spent 3 years in old American oak, looks and smells golden. Rich in taste, but light-medium bodied and dry, Lajido Pico DOP Superior 2003 offers flavors of honeycomb, caramel, and Marcona almond, buoyed by volcanic minerality, medium acidity, and the faintest hint of soft tannins. I’d set it against softshell crabs, a stinky cheese, or a strong cigar.
Visit Lajido and the Pico Cooperative online at http://www.picowines.net/
Purchased at market in Madalena, Pico Island. I’m not a wine expert and can’t characterize wines by all the descriptors enthusiasts use but my primary taste response is “this is very and too acidic” and I’m glad I spent only 11 Euro for it. I’m not likely to finish it unless I happen to use it for cooking something that needs an acidic wine.