Last Monday, I stopped by Obicà Mozzarella Bar for a vertical tasting of Tenuta San Leonardo, a historic estate in the Vallagarina Valley, which carries the Adige River through Northern Italy’s Trentino region. San Leonardo has been making its signature wine, the Bordeaux-style blend San Leonardo Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, since 1982. We sampled all the way back to 1994 (a vintage not much younger than I am), and I was struck by the wine’s consistency — near-opaque purple color, seductive perfume, and dark cherry and tart blueberry notes evident in each vintage. My favorite by far was the ’04, which had a nose I’m not even embarrassed to call “arousing.” This vintage was fuller-bodied than any before or since, with ample acidity and excellent tannic structure, plus dark chocolate and blood orange notes adding even more complexity to the versatile flavor profile typical of San Leonardo. If you can find a bottle of San Leonardo Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT 2004, I strongly suggest you drink it. If not, San Leonardo’s Carmenère is an affordable alternative. Potent mahogany scent, and a palate offering a spice box of flavors: black pepper and paprika playing off crushed blackberries and earthy, mahogany tones. San Leonardo Carmenère is medium-full bodied, with good acidity. Carmenère can be sort of a weird grape — it’s herbaceous, and it definitely wants food; I’d pair this one with chicken cacciatore, Parmigiano-Reggiano, or braised brisket.
Visit Tenuta San Leonardo online, and check out Obicà Mozzarella Bar while you’re at it!
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